Semeru is Java’s highest peak and has been active for decades – a
cloud of black volcanic ash and sand is frequently released from near
the summit – sometimes once an hour, sometimes as often as every ten
minutes. There have been numerous fatalities, but it is a popular and
safe hike if you treat the mountain with respect and as Java’s highest
peak, it is one of the finest hikes in Indonesia.
The trail starts at the village of Ranu Pani (2,109m) where there is
basic accommodation available and you will need a minimum of two full
days for the hike to the summit and back. There are many trekking
agencies in East Java who offer jeep transport across the length and
breadth of the National Park including the vast Bromo caldera and to
Ranu Pani village itself from the city of Malang via Tumpang. Thankfully
it is not yet possible to drive to the summit of Semeru! However, the
road from Malang to Ranu Pani offers breathtaking views and reaches an
elevation of over 2,400m at its highest point.
From Ranu Pani follow the road towards the lake which gives the
village its name and make sure you take a right just before red entrance
posts. A left turn up onto a narrow track through forest is just a
couple of minutes further along and once you’re on this trail it is
quite difficult to lose your way because there are frequent cement
markers and green shelters at 2,284m, 2,346m and 2,426m respectively.
The path is even paved at this point. Look out for monkeys in the area.
It’s a long 14km to Kalimati basecamp (2,669m) but the route goes via
the beautiful Ranu Kumbolo lake (2,382m) which is a good camp spot in
its own right. It can be reached in 4 hours from Ranu Pani but is famous
for its low temperatures at night – frost is common so remember to take
plenty of warm clothing and don’t leave your boots outside. There are a
couple of huts on the far side of the lake before which the path
ascends a hundred metres or so before descending again into an area
which is sometimes covered in beautiful purple flowers. Kalimati – which
lies beneath but in view of the rocky cone of Semeru summit itself – is
another 3 hours of fantastic, easy hiking across savanna-esque
landscapes and is perhaps marginally warmer. There is a somewhat shabby
hut here and the flat area surrounding it is a very popular camping area
and water is to be found about 15 minutes walk down to the right.
Another 2 km (one hour) is Arcopodo basecamp (2,912m), which is the
best place to camp if you intend on reaching the summit at dawn and have
the best chance of clear views and more importantly to avoid the worst
of the gases. The path descends a little from Kalimati before ascending
steeply up the forested base of the cone of Semeru itself. A lot of
people choose to spend one night at Ranu Kumbolo and a second up at
Arcopodo before making a pre-dawn ascent to the summit. There used to be
a pair of statues at Arcopodo but it is presumed they were covered
during landslides. There is plenty of flattish space for tents here – at
least 10 – despite the generally steep pine forest terrain. It is about
3 hours from Arcopodo camp to the summit and the track is very steep.
In some places lower down there are cement posts to guide you but many
of them have long since toppled over and are buried in volcanic scree!
The treeline ends at 3,110 and there are excellent views particularly to
Arjuna. You may also spot some pre-dawn camera flashes from the famous
viewpoint Gunung Pananjakan
on the northern side of the Bromo caldera. The summit cone is very
slippery with small volcanic rocks – definitely a case of two steps
forward and one step back.
As you near the top you may literally feel the earth move as Semeru
sends another cloud of volcanic sand into the air. There are lots of
monuments to people have lost their lives up here but generally speaking
the climb is safe – but do not head closer to the crater itself from
the summit. The view from the rooftop of Java is as incredible as you
might expect – a vast panorama of all of East Java’s major peaks,
something to savour before the hike back to Ranu Pani, which can be done
in one long day. The first section down the scree is a lot of fun –
what takes 3 hours to climb takes just 1 hour to scree-slide down!
On the way back to Ranu Pani, the more adventurous may like to try an
alternative route from Ranu Kumbolo back to the village via Gunung
Ajekajek. It is a lot steeper – a 300m climb again – but marginally
shorter in terms of both distance and time. If you have any energy left
it makes an interesting alternative to the fairly bland plod along the
normal route. Take a left turn at the lake and follow the path as it
leads through lovely grassy flat landscapes before heading right up the
hillside once more. After an hour you will be at the top of the pass
(2,719m) which offers rarely-seen views of Semeru. Down below you in the
opposite direction (north) is Ranu Pani and the Bromo caldera beyond.
This now infrequently used trail used to be the main route to Semeru
several decades ago.
And don't forget for visit to Sindoro Sumbing Mount.
And don't forget for visit to Sindoro Sumbing Mount.
