PATUHA MOUNT

Gunung Patuha is just over 40km from Bandung city, near Sugih village in the district of Pasir Jambu. It is the highest peak in the large highland area between the Gede-Pangrango massif and the mountains of Garut. The word ‘patuha’ apparently comes from the words “Pak Tua” (old man). It’s actually a twin volcano – with two summit craters of very different character. The forest-covered north crater is the highest of the two and has been dormant for many centuries. The south crater, known as Kawah Putih (white crater), is a leading local tourist attraction. It is very popular with visitors at weekends and was first written about by Dr. Franz Wihelm Junghuhn (1809-1864), a Dutch botanist from Germany. He found that the high density of sulphur was making birds reluctant to fly over the crater. Locals still regard the area as haunted and the atmosphere is definitely one of eerie calm. During the 20th century, the Dutch built a sulfur mine which was later controlled by the Japanese military. Sulphur mine tunnels and the remanants of old buildings still exist to this day. There are also several ancient graves in the area. The car park is at an elevation of 2,200m so it’s a very easy climb to the top – there and back in less than two hours!

From Bandung, there are plenty of angkots serving the main road south-west to Soreang and Ciwidey and it is an easy day-trip from Bandung. However, you will have to change vehicle at least once so it is much better to avoid the waiting around and hire a taxi/private car. It takes approximately 90 minutes from the centre of Bandung to the top of the road at Kawah Putih. Beyond Ciwidey, the road is lined with strawberry fields, plants for sale and related produce. From this point, Kawah Putih is well signposted and it is very hard to miss the entrance gates. Since 1987 Kawah Putih has been an official tourist site and has an information centre and cafe. Entrance tickets are a very reasonable Rp. 12,000 and it is open from 7am until 5pm. Beyond the entrance gates, the road climbs up over 5km through delightful eucalyptus plantation to the crater car park. There are several places worth stopping at briefly to admire the view of other forested peaks in the distance.

When you reach the top of the road, there is a large area for vehicles and small warungs (shops), and some excellent places for having a picnic. Kawah Putih itself is very impressive – a misty turquoise crater lake surrounded by white rocks and sand. There is a smell of sulphur but it is not overpowering. To reach the summit of Gunung Patuha, leave the car park at the stone tree trunk and continue up through the forest on a well-defined path to the right of Kawah Putih. The trail is very clear although not many Kawah Putih visitors hike this way. After less than 30 minutes of ascent through the forest the edge of the old forested crater is reached. There is a flat area occasionally used for camping. From this point you can look down over the edge to the swampy, dormant northern crater floor. Apparently there were eruptions here several hundred years ago. From the camping spot, follow the less well-defined path leading left (west) through the forest along the edge of the crater. The trail ascends and descends and ascends again before you reach another flat, open area suitable for camping. This is the true summit and there is a small collection of rocks which could well be a grave of some sort. Sadly, views are very limited due to the density of the forest. According to local people, this summit area was used in the past as a meeting place of the ancestors of South Bandung and it is certainly a great place for quiet contemplation.

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BONGKOK MOUNT

The steep and impressive Gunung Bongkok (sometimes mis-spelt ‘Bangkok’) lies just to the south of the equally imposing Gunung Parang. They are both of great interest to rock climbers as there are various vertical rock faces on their slopes. Despite being just a couple of hours from Jakarta, they are not often visited except by local villagers and occasional student hikers. Both peaks are stunning and it must surely only be a matter of time before these mountains become much more well-known.

Both peaks lie to the east of the large Jatiluhur reservoir near Purwakarta. The starting point for Gunung Bongkok is Cisarua, which is best accessed via Plered because the small farm roads from Purwakarta are incredibly bumpy and rocky and it would take at least 20 minutes just to get from Pasangrahan (starting point for Parang) to Cisarua. If in doubt, as for the school (sekolah) in Cisarua. It is best to allow 2 hours for the journey from Purakarta to Cisarua.

In Cisarua, there is a small warung where a couple of vehicles can be left. The local people are very friendly and would be more than willing to guide you to the top for a very modest fee. Cisarua is at an elevation of approximately 450m so it’s just 520 metres of ascent to reach the top, which can easily be done in 2 hours by most fit people. Building work is currently going on and there is a new track leading up from Cisarua towards the mountain itself. From here, in good weather you will be able to spot the huge gilstening andesite boulders which crown the peak of Bongkok.

Soon you will reach the end of where building work is underway and this is where a guide becomes essential. The farm trail leads up the hillside and follows a pleasant grassy strip for some distance. It’s a beautiful area – mango trees, cattle roaming freely and great views back down towards the huge reservoir.

After about 30 minutes of fairly standard upland farm hiking, you will reach the crest of the hill (650m) and this is where you must turn left onto the shoulder of the mountain. The area is full of bamboo trees and occasional large boulders. The trail soon gets much steeper and there are several rather tricky places where you will need to use both hands to ascend/descend large rocks and steep muddy areas. There is not much of a view here because of the trees, but think of this as a blessing because it would be oppressively hot outside the shade.

Soon you will reach the true summit ridge, where you turn left, pass an ancient grave and then finally spot the summit boulders of this superb mountain. Because of the size of the boulders, no trees can grow at the top of the mountain and so the views are absolutely stunning – the vastness of the Jatiluhur reservoir below, the phenomenal shape of neighbouring Gunung Parang, the vertical drops back down to the villages and the holy mountain of Gunung Sanggabuana on the other side of the reservoir. It is truly breathtaking.

The boulders are easily climbed so – unlike the densely vegetated Gn Parang – Bongkok can be bagged very easily. Do take great care however because a fall here would mean falling several hundred metres down the cliff face of the mountain. There is much animal life here – swallows love to swoop round the peak and in sunny conditions you will probably be able to see a few eagles soaring below you. There are also a number of flying ants so make sure to check for them every few minutes.

After enjoying an hour or two in the shade of the huge boulders, simply follow the trail back down to Cisarua. Because of a few steep, difficult sections of the trail it takes a little longer to descend that to climb. Allow 2 hours.

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